Why is a single button considered more formal or elegant? Because it's simpler, and simplicity is elegant. Here we see the other two options: a two-button closure (standard on English business suits) and a three-button closure (considered sportier and less formal)
The term jetted pockets refers to this pocket style you see here. It's a slit bordered by two thin strips of fabric known as welts. Following the logic that simplicity is elegance, jetted pockets are more formal than flapped and patched pockets (or flapped patch pockets).
Here we see the other two pocket styles in their more natural habitats: the flapped pocket on business suits and patched pockets on a sporty tweed. When it comes to formality, it goes: jetted, flapped, and patched, in descending order.
When a beautiful suit comes together, all of the elements work in concert to send a coherent message. Here, we see a peak lapel (more formal than a notch) with jetted pockets (more formal than flapped or patched pockets). This is a business suit that says, "I'm a fancy boy!"
In Naples, where the weather is warmer, men like to dress things down. One of my tailors, Gennaro Solito, likes to wear three-roll-two jackets (three buttons with the lapel rolling to the second) with patch pockets. Details say, "Ay, no big deal! Relax and be comfy, my friend!"
One only needs to see these languages side-by-side to understand the difference: the combination of fabric, color, lapel style, pocket style, and closure style makes one more formal than the other. One button vs. three buttons. Jetted ver patch pocket, etc.
Let's get back to this man. Under the superficial layer of color, there is a language shaped by generations of tradition. We see a shawl collar, one-button closure, and jetted pockets. These elements come together to communicate that he's dressed for this occasion.
The shawl collar makes him look relaxed and elegant. The one-button closure and jetted pockets make this garment a little more formal than a business suit, which makes him look prepared to take on the new life he will be living. At the same time, unique fabric expresses him.
If I were in charge of his fitting, I would give him a slightly fuller silhouette. But the suit still flatters him and works for his body type. You can see it follows the most important points, such as draping cleanly. The jacket also covers his butt (important).
By contrast, this suit was designed with two unusual elements: what looks to be either an appliqué or embroidery popping out of the out-breast pocket and the exposed zipper serving as the closure. Neither of these have any tradition in anything; they look odd.
The double-breasted jacket has also been cut so that the lapel looks unusually truncated, ruining the beautiful, sweeping line that is usually characteristic of a traditional double-breasted jacket. As a result, the lapels look stubby. Again, very odd.
Everyone nowadays wants to wear a very "hip" cut, which means slimmer and shorter jackets. But this jacket does not cover the wearer's butt. All of the elements are odd, so it's hard to critique this because the designer is working within a language that's already confusing.
@dieworkwear To me this jacket is pretty clearly saying “what if biker jacket was suit jacket?” The lapels, the zipper and length are all similar to a classic leather biker jacket. It works for me, I like it better than the pink one.
@dieworkwear To me the truncated lapel reminds me a bit of wwII trenchcoats and peacoats, and the zipper is very 80s.
@dieworkwear It's unusual and I don't think it works but seems like rather than being arbitrary these divergences are just Chrome Hearts--a brand known for its leatherwork, jewelry, and rockstar aesthetic--"riffing" by applying a Perfecto-style leather jacket cut to a suit